Baignoire de Joséphine Boat Trip in Martinique: Our Honest Review

If there’s one thing everyone told us to do on our trip to Martinique, it was to see the Baignoire de Joséphine, or “Josephine’s Bath”. It’s a natural pool right in the middle of the sea, where you can stand up. As you’ve probably guessed, getting there means either having a friend with a boat or booking a boat trip, a bit like when you go to see the dolphins.
We opted for a full-day boat trip, which looked really complete on paper. “Les Balades de Delphis” run catamaran days that cruise around the white sandbanks and the little islets nearby. So we went to see the Baignoire de Joséphine… and much more! And it was really the whole day that won us over!

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Baignoire de Joséphine at a glance

Our day at the Baignoire de Joséphine

We meet at 9am at the harbour in Le François, where two huge catamarans, our ships for the day, are moored. There are about twenty of us, but given the size of the boat, that’s fine: we won’t be packed in like sardines.

At 9.30am, after the formalities, off we go towards the Baignoire de Joséphine and its famous natural pool, between Îlet Thierry and Îlet Oscar. The water we start to glimpse is stunning, and a pontoon appears on the horizon… We’d happily move here!

In the distance we spot the blue lagoon, which you can reach either by swimming or by dinghy. Alcino and I jump into the water like kids and swim over.

The Baignoire de Joséphine

According to the programme, we were supposed to see the Baignoire de Joséphine at the end of the day but, to be honest with you, it’s a good thing we saw it first, because… we were rather disappointed! In the end, it’s very small, so not that impressive! Yes, the water is a gorgeous colour and we’re standing in the middle of the sea, but we were expecting a big natural pool like the one we’d seen in the Dominican Republic…

We splash around for a while, enjoying an aperitif: piping hot saltfish accras washed down with a little planteur, the local rum punch. It’s a really friendly, convivial moment, far from the clichés I’d seen (and hate) of tourists drinking straight from the bottle…

Then we head off towards Îlet Loup-Garou, where the sand is pink but landing is forbidden. In season, turtles come here to lay their eggs, so the islet is very well protected.

Îlet Loup-Garou

Then, around 11am, we reach Îlet Chancel, known for its protected iguana reserve. We land on an island with emerald-green water and lush vegetation, and set off in search of the famous creatures. You really have to keep your eyes peeled, as they’re not that easy to spot. We finally see a few in the trees, then on the ground…

The crew tells us a bit about the life of the iguanas here, and about some of the trees on the island. You need to be careful what you touch, as some are dangerous, like the manchineel tree.

Îlet Chancel

As it’s nearly lunchtime, we set off again to drop anchor in clearer waters.

Lunch on board

Lunch is served inside the boat, in the shade… but above all sheltered from the rain, which decides to join us for the day… On the menu, delicious Martinique food: chatrou (octopus) fricassee and salad to start, then a succulent tuna court-bouillon with rice and plantains… And to finish, a delicious pineapple with cinnamon and vanilla. Everything is far too good!

While we digest, the rain gives us a break and we head towards Îlet Madame to enjoy its underwater life.

Îlet Madame

We tried to walk around the islet (apparently it’s possible), but we didn’t manage it. So instead we made the most of the crystal-clear water to go snorkelling and feast our eyes!

I went completely crazy when I saw such a big starfish, and then came dozens and dozens of huge starfish one after another, among a few small colourful fish and thousands of sea cucumbers… We were so mesmerised by this underwater world that we could have stayed there for hours!

And then the sound of the conch shell marks the end of this wonderful day… We sail back to the harbour in Le François and watch the sunset… These are the moments when you wish time would stand still…

Baignoire de Joséphine: practical information

Our review, info and tips

• We went with the Delphis company, departing from the harbour in Le François. We had the “all-female” crew (sorry, I can’t remember their names!). During our trip, on Îlet Chancel, we spent some time alongside the second catamaran, whose crew made some dodgy, borderline jokes… We didn’t like that at all!
• In 2016 we paid €80 for the day, from 9am to around 5pm, with a snack in the morning, another in the afternoon and lunch, with unlimited drinks.
• Snorkelling gear is available on board, and there’s even a toilet!
• If you suffer from seasickness, our crew had medication on board just in case. However, we don’t know if that’s the case on every trip, so take precautions, or your day could be ruined.

➺ We really loved this day sailing in the Caribbean and don’t regret choosing the full-day trip rather than the half day. Admittedly, it’s quite a budget, especially for a couple or a group, but we highly recommend this outing. The islets are an integral part of Martinique’s heritage, and it would be a shame to miss this trip out at sea.

And if you visited it a few years ago, be prepared for a surprise: the Baignoire de Joséphine has shrunk a lot over time… If you’ve already seen other natural pools, it may seem rather modest.

How do you get to the Baignoire de Joséphine?

No beach, no jetty from the shore… The only way to reach the Baignoire de Joséphine is by boat! It lies off Le François, on the Atlantic coast, and almost all trips leave from the town’s harbour. You have three options.

• A group boat trip, the simplest and cheapest option. Expect around €40–55 per person for a half day and €60–90 for a full day with a Creole lunch (up to €120 by catamaran).
• A private trip, ideal for families or groups of friends: from around €450 per boat for a half day, and about €1,000 for a full day.
• Boat hire, with or without a licence depending on the engine power. Be careful though: navigating between the white sandbanks and the islets requires good local knowledge, so ask the rental company for advice before setting off.

Which Baignoire de Joséphine boat trip should you choose?

We’ve only tried one trip ourselves, the full day. To help you choose, here are the best-rated trips at the moment, depending on how much time and budget you have:

• The most popular: the boat trip to the Baignoire de Joséphine, the François islets and Îlet Chancel (3 hours, from around €55), with more than 500 reviews and a 4.4/5 rating.
• The best rated: the White Sandbanks, Baignoire de Joséphine and islets tour (4 hours, from around €65), rated 4.9/5.
• The full day: the Baignoire de Joséphine and Îlet Chancel trip with lunch (7 hours, from around €95), to enjoy the islets at a relaxed pace and have lunch on board.
• Private: the private boat trip to the white sandbanks (3.5 hours, around €350 for a group of up to 5 people), ideal for families or friends.

Half day or full day?

A half day (3 to 4 hours) focuses on the Baignoire de Joséphine and the white sandbanks of Îlet Thierry, sometimes with a stop at Îlet Chancel. A full day (around 7 hours) usually adds Îlet Chancel and its iguanas, a snorkelling session at Îlet Madame and a Creole lunch on board. If you only have a morning, a half day is enough to see the Baignoire; to really enjoy the islets, go for the full day.

When is the best time to visit the Baignoire de Joséphine?

Morning is the best time: there are fewer people and the light makes the water even more turquoise. Avoid weekends if you can, especially Sundays, when many locals also head out to sea. From December to April, in high season, book your trip a few days in advance.

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So, are you tempted by a trip to the Baignoire de Joséphine and its islets?

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