Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia: A Traditional Festival in Portugal

When I told you about visiting Viana do Castelo, I explained how many village and town festivals there are in Portugal (especially in summer). Most of them are religious and celebrate God or a saint. I decided to tell you about the festival in Viana do Castelo because not only do I love this festival, I go every year… But above all, the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia is the largest event of its kind in the whole country!

“Romaria” can be translated as “pilgrimage” or “festival”, and Nossa Senhora d’Agonia as Our Lady of Agony. It takes place every year in August and officially lasts around 15 days, but most of the events are concentrated over 4/5 days. It is the largest Romaria in Portugal. If you are in the area at that time, don’t miss it! It will quickly complete your itinerary if you do not know what to do in northern Portugal.

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Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia

1. Tapetes da Ribeira ⇒ The carpets

All night before the procession to the sea, fishermen and their families get to work creating magnificent carpets made of salt, flowers, and seaweed. These carpets can be admired from 10 p.m. until the next day, when the procession begins. All these colors and shapes are truly beautiful and impressive!

2. Procissão ao Mar ⇒ The procession to the sea

Viana, at the gateway to the ocean, is therefore a fishing town. This procession is the fishermen’s way of expressing their faith in Our Lady of Agony. It starts from the church of the same name, moves through the streets to the various boats, where her “andor” (her representation mounted on a wooden board) is carried to the mouth of the river, like a blessing that the sea gives to the saint.

3. Desfile da Mordomia ⇒ The Mordomia parade

They are the queens of the festival. Historically, the Mordomas were single young women with a good reputation. This is their first appearance during the festival. It is a joyful parade of smiles, red, green, blue, purple, and black outfits, as well as beautiful gold jewelry.

4. Festa do Traje ⇒ Traditional costume festival

The outfits seen during the previous parades are presented and explained to the public: this is the time to learn about their differences and their stories.

5. Cortejo ⇒ The ethnographic procession

This procession presents part of the city’s history, its crafts, gold, embroidery, customs, and more. The different floats follow one another, and no two are alike: some hand out bread, wine, or candy. Priests make jokes, fishermen touch the crowd with fish hanging from their fishing rods… I love the atmosphere of this procession, it really is an experience in itself. I assure you that if you attend it, you will understand what I meant. 🙂

6. Festivais ⇒ Festivals

Well-known and lesser-known singers, folk dancers: during these festive days, concerts bring the evenings to life.

7. Fogo de artifício ⇒ Fireworks

During the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia, there are 3 fireworks displays: the one in the “garden”, near the marina and the craft market; the one in the “campo”, near Santiago da Barra castle; and the icing on the cake, the one that closes the festivities, on the Eiffel bridge, called Serenata. What makes it special is that the fireworks are staged to make it look as if the bridge is burning. It is impressive, and it is my favorite moment ♥.

To be honest, the three aren’t equal. The one at the Campo is, in my opinion, the least impressive. The garden one is nice, especially if you’re already near the craft market. But the one that’s really worth it is the Serenata, on the Eiffel bridge. If you only see one, make it this one!

Where to watch the Serenata?

Stands are set up for the occasion, but they fill up fast. My tip: head to the level of the Pecado Capital restaurant, where steps lead down to the river. You can sit there with a stunning view of the bridge… as long as you arrive early.

My tips for enjoying the bridge fireworks:

• Come early, very early: the Serenata draws huge crowds and the best spots go fast.
• Bring food and drinks: once you’ve got your spot, you won’t want to lose it (and you’d be right).
• Take a jacket: by the Lima river, evenings can get chilly.
• Bring something to sit on: a cushion, a towel or a plastic bag, as the steps can be wet.
• Agree on a meeting point in advance: with the crowds, the phone network is often saturated.

In short, the best advice I can give you: grab your pão com chouriço (a bread roll baked with chorizo inside) and claim your spot early… then enjoy the show!

8. Gigantones & Cabeçudos ⇒ The “Big heads”

They parade while dancing in the different processions, but also several times at noon in the main square (praça da República). They inspire joy and the desire to dance, don’t they? Well, okay, some of them are scary… Don’t hesitate to go to the square at the end of the performances, you will be able to take a souvenir photo with one of their masks on your head!

9. Procissão Solene ⇒ The religious procession

This procession is purely religious and entirely dedicated to different saints, featuring several “andores” with their representations. They then parade through the city streets following a predefined route.

10. Rides, street vendors, craft market

A craft market stretches from the Eiffel bridge to the main avenue (Av. dos Combatentes da Grande Guerra), offering a pleasant walk with plenty of local products. Then, on the other side of the avenue as you go up toward the main church, small stalls selling food and drinks line the way, all the way to the attractions: Ferris wheel, bumper cars, and other rides for children and adults.

That is a short summary of the different events you can attend during the festival.

Practical tips for taking part in the Romaria

In our general article about Viana do Castelo, I tell you in detail what there is to see and do. However, here are a few good addresses and tips to make the most of the city festival.

Where to eat?

As there are huge crowds during the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia, I recommend booking your restaurant in advance, otherwise you may end up having lunch at 3 p.m. (speaking from experience, ha ha). Choose a café for a quick bite, or a picnic for lunch. We recommend the café A Brasileira, Tasca Dentro, or our favorite in the city center, Botas d’Agua.

Where to stay?

There are some very beautiful hotels in Viana! I recommend Flor de Sal by the sea, or, if you have the budget, the Santa Luzia hotel; I will let you discover the incredible view this hotel has. In any case, one piece of advice: book in advance. The Romaria of Viana is very popular, and busloads of tourists from all over the country come during this festival week.

How to get to Viana do Castelo?

If you are taking a road trip in northern Portugal, you will definitely have a vehicle. I recommend parking your car and not moving it again during the festival. Finding another parking space will be very complicated.

If you are staying in Porto, for example, you can come by train (see the timetables and prices here) and spend the night in Viana. In my opinion, it is better to stay at least one night there to experience the nighttime atmosphere of the festival and attend one of the majestic fireworks displays. (Rather than doing a day trip.)

FAQ about the Viana do Castelo festival

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So, did you enjoy it? Did you know about this festival? If not, we hope we have made you want to go and discover the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia for yourself!

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