Things to Do in Bacalar: 10 Highlights on the Lagoon of 7 Colours

Bacalar is a small town on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, in the state of Quintana Roo, a few hours’ drive from Tulum… Still spared from mass tourism, it’s best known for its lagoon of 7 colours, with a thousand shades of blue: 4 km wide, 42 km long, just a stone’s throw from Belize…

Let’s just say that looking up things to do in Bacalar was definitely not on my list before we went. It looked pretty, but not an essential stop… We hesitated for a long time about adding it to our itinerary, but in the end we stopped there… Let me tell you how this “simple stopover” became one of the highlights ❤ of our trip to Mexico, and everything there is to do there.

✤✤✤

Bacalar at a glance

Visiting Bacalar, the “pueblo mágico”

That’s what you read as you drive into town… The magic town… Hmm, we’ll see about that! To be honest, I didn’t really feel like stopping here. “Gorgeous blue lagoons”, that’s what I’d read. OK, sure, but pretty things and pretty blues, I think we’ll see plenty of those on this Yucatan road trip, right? Alcino quickly talks me round: “It’ll be a good break on the drive between Tulum and Calakmul.” Fine.

Which goes to show that sometimes changing your mind, changing your route, having the freedom to stop wherever you like… I wouldn’t trade this way of travelling for anything. Just a few hours were enough to convince me that we’d found a little slice of paradise…

It’s dark when we arrive in town, we struggle to find our hotel, and the satnav sends us down bumpy dirt tracks… Luckily we speak Spanish and Mexicans are really friendly! A man more or less points us in the right direction, and 30 minutes later we’re welcomed by our host, Victor. Relaxed and easy-going, he immediately puts us in the Bacalar mood: no stress here. We have free use of bikes, kayaks and hammocks. Off to a good start.

Up at dawn for the sunrise, and to finally discover the place… And what a sight! Such calm, such serenity… We’re spellbound. We stay there for a while, soaking up this simple show, just the two of us, alone in the world… Then we have breakfast on the terrace of this magnificent spot… We could stay there for hours, couldn’t you?

Things to do in Bacalar

As you’ll have gathered, here you take your time, wander, make the most of the moment… That’s exactly what we did. After almost a week on the road, it was a welcome break. After our lazy morning on the terrace, we cycle into town before heading back to the hotel for a boat trip.

Here are our 10 highlights for making the most of the lagoon of 7 colours, mixing what we did there and what we’d do without hesitation with an extra day…

1. Take a boat trip on the lagoon of 7 colours

Around midday, we set off by boat! People come to Bacalar for its lagoon of seven colours, to swim and snorkel, but also to discover its very unusual cenotes… Our trip lasts about 2 hours: we cruise around the lagoon and the cenotes, go for a swim, and try out “the Mayan bath”.

It’s simple: as soon as we set off, we want to stop everywhere for a swim, the water is so beautiful. We quickly understand why it’s called the lagoon of seven colours, given all the shades we can see. A few clouds join our trip, bringing out even more blues in the water. Our captain gives us a guided tour of the lagoon, with lots of stories about the houses along its shores. Then come the ones we’ve also been eagerly waiting for: the cenotes. Here they aren’t open-air or “half full”, they’re completely submerged, giving the water an incredible colour! We’ll let you admire it in pictures…

➺ We paid 700 pesos for two, booking the trip through our hotel (prices in town were the same). Today, allow around 300 to 400 pesos per person for a 2 to 3-hour shared tour, and 600 to 900 pesos for a sailing trip. You can also book your boat trip online in advance.

2. Admire the lagoon’s cenotes

There are 4 main ones: Cenote Azul, Cenote Cocalitos, Cenote Esmeralda and Cenote Negro. The last one is the most impressive, as it plunges to 170 metres deep! This “hole” gives the water an intense colour that suddenly turns very dark, in contrast with the crystal-clear water of the lagoon: it’s a truly amazing place. Cenote Negro is also called Cenote de la Bruja, meaning witch. We can only imagine the stories it has inspired… Cenote Azul is the only one not directly connected to the lagoon, but you can get there by bike. Our article on the best cenotes in Yucatán is right here!

3. Go through the Pirates’ Channel

It’s one of the classic stops on boat trips: a narrow channel lined with mangroves, once used by pirates to reach the lagoon from the sea… and attack Bacalar (hence the fort!). The current is gentle, the water an almost unreal turquoise, and this is where the famous “Mayan bath” takes place. We joined in during our trip: you cover yourself in white mud from the bottom of the lagoon, let it dry for a bit… then dive back in to rinse off! If your tour doesn’t go through the channel, ask for it when you book.

4. See the stromatolites

They’re the real stars of the lagoon… These formations, which look like simple rocks underwater, are actually built by micro-organisms, among the oldest forms of life on Earth. You’ll see them mainly around Los Rápidos and along some of the shores. They’re very fragile: look, but don’t touch, and never stand on them.

5. Watch the sunrise over the lagoon

We told you about it above: getting up at dawn for the sunrise is still one of our best memories of Mexico… Settle down on a jetty, coffee in hand, and watch the lagoon go through all its colours. Our only regret? Not staying one more night to see the sunset too!

6. Go kayaking or paddleboarding

Our hotel lent kayaks for free, and many waterfront places to stay do the same. Otherwise, allow around 150 to 200 pesos an hour to hire one. The best time? Early in the morning, when the lagoon is as smooth as glass and the boats haven’t gone out yet.

7. Explore Bacalar by bike

There are bikes everywhere here! A little quirk: they have no brakes! You have to pedal backwards… Errr, OK! It’s 9am when we set off, taking our time along the lagoon. Bacalar’s buzz is concentrated in its small town centre: a lovely square, a school, a few restaurants, a few heladerías, the fort, and a million guys selling boat trips on the lagoon, ha ha!

8. See San Felipe fort

We didn’t go in because the price seemed a bit steep for what it was, and we’d already had a good look from the outside. The fort was built to protect Bacalar from pirates who came in from the sea through the channels to the lagoon. It houses a museum about the town’s history. Today, allow around 110 pesos to get in (the fort is closed on Mondays).

9. Float down Los Rápidos

About 8 km south of Bacalar, towards Chetumal, the lagoon narrows into a channel where the current carries you along on its own… You drift with the flow, look out for stromatolites and finish at the restaurant with your feet in the water. There’s an entrance fee (around 150 pesos in 2026) and you can hire kayaks there.

10. Relax at Cocalitos or a balneario

For a lazy day, head to Cenote Cocalitos with its swings and hammocks set right in the turquoise water (a reader warmly recommended it to us!). Entry is around 50 pesos. Another option: the municipal balneario, on the lagoon near the town centre, for a swim without breaking the bank.

Visiting Bacalar: practical info

How to get to Bacalar

We had our hire car, but buses run between Tulum and Bacalar (their website: ADO buses). It took us a good 2 hours to reach Bacalar, leaving Tulum around 5.30pm.

We then headed to Conhuas to sleep, before exploring Calakmul the next morning, but that’s another story…

How long to stay in Bacalar

To visit Bacalar, plan at least one day, but 2 days let you fully enjoy the lagoon of seven colours and see the main sights around town. A hire car is still the most practical way to explore the surrounding area, although Bacalar can be reached by bus from the main destinations in Quintana Roo. Looking back, we’d recommend staying at least one night: the lagoon is at its most beautiful in the morning and at the end of the day.

Where to stay in Bacalar

As we were booking our hotels pretty much the day before, everything in Bacalar was extremely expensive! We had the choice between a hotel out of town or one without access to the lagoon… That’s how we ended up at Casa Ichakabal Bacalar. A bit far from the centre, then, and a rather “basic” room that could do with some finishing touches. On the plus side: breakfast included, free bikes and kayaks, secure parking, and a stunning jetty with hammocks over the lagoon…

Where to eat in Bacalar

On our first evening we had dinner at a taqueria we stumbled upon; it had only just opened, and I don’t think it even had its name up yet!

The next day we had lunch at La Playita: delicious food and a gorgeous setting. Their slogan? “Come, bebe, nada”: eat, drink, swim! In fact, lots of restaurants on the lagoon have jetties, swings and hammocks for lounging after your meal, it’s really lovely!

Some Mexican women staying at our hotel, who often come to Bacalar, also recommended El Socio, El Pejelagarto and El Manatí to discover Mexican food.

✤✤✤

There’s really something magical about Bacalar. Is it the beauty of the place? The serenity of the people? A mix of both? What we do know is that we don’t regret coming at all, and that it was probably one of the most beautiful stops on our trip! If we did it again, we’d even stay an extra day, to really slow down and enjoy this enchanting place…

Bacalar FAQ