We’ll admit it: Châlons-en-Champagne had never really been on our list… We’d been to the region several times before, to visit Reims or Épernay, and each time Châlons was just “the town we drove through”. Big mistake!
So when we had the chance to spend a weekend there, we jumped at it! A night-time boat ride under illuminated bridges, a UNESCO-listed collegiate church, half-timbered houses, an outdoor escape game, Champagne cellars dug centuries ago, a bike ride to a nature reserve… We left feeling we’d uncovered one of Champagne’s best-kept secrets.
In this guide, we share all the best things to do in Châlons-en-Champagne, our weekend itinerary and all our favourite places to stay and eat.
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Things to do in Châlons-en-Champagne at a glance
| 📋 Key info | ✨ Our tips |
|---|---|
| 📍 Where is it? | In the Marne department (Grand Est), 45 km from Reims and 35 km from Épernay, in the heart of the Champagne region |
| 🚆 How to get there? | Direct train from Paris Gare de l’Est, in about 1h30 |
| ⏱️ How long to stay? | A 2-day weekend to see the highlights without rushing |
| ⭐ Must-sees | Métamorph’eau’ses boat ride, Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church, Saint-Étienne cathedral, Joseph Perrier cellars, Le secret du voyageur escape game |
| 🍾 Champagne time | A tour of the Gallo-Roman cellars of the Joseph Perrier Champagne house, founded in 1825 |
| 🚲 Into nature | A bike ride to the Domaine de Coolus, a nature reserve 5 km from the centre |
| 🛏️ Where to stay? | Hôtel Le Renard, on Place de la République, right in the centre |
| 👶 With kids? | Yes! Everything is walkable, and the bike ride works perfectly with a child trailer |
Things to do in Châlons-en-Champagne: our must-sees
Before we went, we pictured Châlons as a rather quiet administrative town. In reality, it’s a genuinely historic city, with the official “Ville d’Art et d’Histoire” label: half-timbered houses, elegant mansions, a 19th-century market hall and, above all, two huge religious buildings just a few streets apart, the UNESCO-listed Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church and Saint-Étienne cathedral. The whole town is criss-crossed by the Marne, the Mau and the Nau, small waterways that wind between the houses and flow under some thirty bridges. Hence its nickname, the “Venice of Champagne”! And everything is walkable, which makes it perfect for a weekend.
A Métamorph’eau’ses boat ride at nightfall
If you only do one thing in Châlons-en-Champagne, make it this one. We absolutely loved it! In the evening, you board from the tourist office pontoon for a ride along the canals, guided by Ondine, the nymph of the Mau and the Nau, who tells the story of the town in a completely unexpected way.
The most amazing moment? Gliding right through “tunnels” beneath the town! It was a first for us. Under the vaults of the Lochet, an underground gallery, projections come to life all around the boat, then, as you drift along, the bridges and façades light up one after another. Between the storytelling and the lighting effects, the experience is really immersive, with a truly magical feel.
Top tip: if you love photography, sit right at the front of the boat, it’s the best spot!
Métamorph’eau’ses rides run in the evening, from April to early January depending on the period. In 2026, expect to pay €18 per adult and €9 per child. Booking is compulsory with the Châlons-en-Champagne tourist office, and be sure to arrive 10 minutes early. Bonus: on the same day, your ticket gets you 10% off at partner restaurants and bars.
If you’d rather sail by day, the classic boat ride, L’Eau’dyssée, lasts around 40 minutes and lets you explore the canals in daylight.
Le secret du voyageur escape game, new for 2026
This is the big new attraction in Châlons this year, and we loved it! The outdoor escape game starts at the tourist office on Quai des Arts and has you roaming the town in search of clues to crack the riddles. A really fun way to discover the historic centre, its lanes and monuments without feeling like you’re on a guided tour.
Allow around 2 hours. The level is intermediate: it’s not too easy, you really do have to think… Thank goodness there are hints! We won’t say any more, we don’t want to spoil it!
Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
You can’t miss its four spires, visible for miles around! The Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela. And it’s simply stunning: huge, with a light-filled nave that moves from Romanesque to Gothic, and incredible stained-glass windows, some dating back to the 16th century.
Listen out: the church houses a 56-bell carillon, one of the largest in Europe, which chimes every quarter of an hour. You can climb up to see it on a guided tour, but during the European Heritage Days there were no slots left… Book ahead! Behind the church, don’t miss the Notre-Dame cloister museum, which displays 12th-century column statues, and its garden.
More info on the Châlons tourist office website.
Saint-Étienne cathedral
Just a few minutes’ walk from the collegiate church, Saint-Étienne cathedral is also very, very beautiful. It’s quite something to have two such huge religious buildings so close to each other! Built between the 12th and 17th centuries, it first surprises you with its façade… it doesn’t look like a cathedral at all. But inside, it was the stained-glass windows that really struck us: they’re sublime.
The Duduchothèque, in the footsteps of Cabu
Did you know? Cabu, the French cartoonist who created the Grand Duduche, was from Châlons. Born in Châlons-en-Champagne in 1938, he was killed in the Charlie Hebdo attack in 2015. The Duduchothèque is dedicated to his early drawings and tells how the young “K-Bu” became Cabu. Entry is free, Wednesday to Sunday from 2pm to 6pm, at 68 Rue Léon Bourgeois.
Visiting the Joseph Perrier Champagne cellars
You can’t come to Champagne without visiting at least one cellar! Founded in 1825, Joseph Perrier is the only Champagne house still based in Châlons-en-Champagne.
The tour starts in the small museum the house has created, which we found fascinating. You learn the story of the whole family, how they got to where they are and how the house went international. Our favourite anecdote: in 1889, Joseph Perrier became the official Champagne supplier to Queen Victoria and her son Edward VII! That’s how the house made its name abroad!
Then you head down into the historic cellars, dug into the chalk in Gallo-Roman times and stretching for several kilometres. Rows of bottles as far as the eye can see are always impressive… And the explanations are always fascinating: riddling, managing the yeasts, ageing… And of course, it all ends with a tasting.
💡 Good to know
📍 Address: Maison Joseph Perrier, 69 Avenue de Paris, 51000 Châlons-en-Champagne (a 25-minute walk from the centre)
🕒 Duration: 1h30, tasting included
🎟️ Price: from €27 per adult, plus a €3 weekend supplement; booking strongly recommended
👶 Children: they’re offered a grape juice during the tasting
Cycling to the Domaine de Coolus
For our last afternoon, we headed for the countryside! From the tourist office, we hopped on our bikes to ride to the Domaine de Coolus, a 38-hectare nature reserve 5 km from the town centre. As for Lucas, he did the whole ride comfortably settled in his trailer… pure luxury!
The estate mixes woodland, meadows and wetlands along the River Coole, with a 3 km waymarked trail, a birdwatching route, a pond, an orchard and even beehives. The Domaine de Coolus trail is about 13 km there and back, on an easy route that’s perfect for a family outing.
We hired our bikes straight from the tourist office, from €12. They give you the route: just scan a QR code and the itinerary opens in Google Maps, so handy! It was such a treat to be out in nature just two minutes from town. We followed the banks of the Marne, came across horses… We’d happily have kept going!
Strolling through the Jards, the green heart of Châlons
You can’t miss the Jards in Châlons! We crossed them several times over the weekend: during the escape game, by boat on the Métamorph’eau’ses ride (at night, admittedly…) and on foot on our way to the circus. And each time, it felt like a real breath of fresh air in the middle of town.
The Jards are actually three listed historic gardens covering more than 12 hectares. The Petit Jard, labelled a “remarkable garden”, is an arboretum with over 200 species, the Grand Jard is a formal French-style garden, and the Jard Anglais is all about winding paths. In summer, Châlons Plage sets up there with pedalos, canoes, beach volleyball and mini golf.
Visiting the covered market on a Saturday
Built in 1882 on the site of a covered-over branch of the Mau, the market hall was inspired by the famous Baltard pavilions in Paris, with its beautiful iron structure. Our tip: come on a Saturday morning (7am to 1pm). As well as the producers inside the hall, there’s an outdoor market too, and it’s much livelier. On Sunday, the market was almost empty…
Wandering the streets of the historic centre
Between visits, take time to get lost in the streets of the centre, around Place de la République and Place Foch. This is where Châlons charmed us most: half-timbered houses on every corner, colourful cobbled streets, pretty shopfronts… We had our phones out for photos all the time!
A town that lives to the rhythm of its festivals
Another thing that struck us about Châlons is how lively it is. There’s always something going on, whatever the season!
The big event is the Furies festival, every June. As one of Europe’s circus arts capitals, Châlons turns its town centre into a giant open-air big top, with circus and street performances that are often surprising. And every year in early December, students from the National Circus Arts Centre (CNAC) perform their graduation show.
The rest of the year, the calendar is packed: the Musiques d’Ici et d’Ailleurs festival in July, with dozens of free concerts, Châlons Plage in the Jards in summer, the Châlons Fair in September, Vignobles en Scène in October, not forgetting the Christmas market in December. Just check the tourist office’s events calendar before you go and you’re bound to find something!
Our weekend itinerary in Châlons-en-Champagne
Here’s how we organised our weekend, from Friday evening to Sunday afternoon. We did everything on foot (or by bike), never more than a few minutes away.
Friday evening: arrival and first dinner
We left Paris Gare de l’Est at 6:36pm and arrived in Châlons at 8:13pm. Then it was off to La Maison de Marie-Caroline restaurant for a first dinner, before dropping our bags at Hôtel Le Renard.
Saturday: escape game, Cabu, the circus and a night-time boat ride
We started the day with Le secret du voyageur escape game from the tourist office, before lunch at Le Petit Pasteur. In the afternoon, we went on to the Duduchothèque, then stopped by the historic circus, exceptionally open for the Heritage Days. A stroll through the town centre streets, dinner at Les Sarments, and at 10pm we were off for the Métamorph’eau’ses boat ride. The perfect day!
Sunday: collegiate church, Champagne and cycling
On Sunday morning, we visited the Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church, then headed to the Joseph Perrier house to explore its cellars… and taste, of course. After lunch at Le Comptoir de la Licorne, we finished in style with the bike ride to the Domaine de Coolus. And then it was already time to head home!
Visiting Châlons-en-Champagne: practical info
How to get to Châlons-en-Champagne?
From Paris, the easiest way is by train: direct TER services link Gare de l’Est to Châlons-en-Champagne in about 1h30. The station is around a 15-minute walk from the centre. By car, allow about 2 hours from Paris via the A4 motorway. Coming from the UK? Take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord, then it’s a short walk to Gare de l’Est for your train to Châlons.
Where to stay in Châlons-en-Champagne?
We stayed at Hôtel Le Renard, at 24 Place de la République. You couldn’t ask for a better location: most sights and restaurants are less than 10 minutes’ walk away.
Special mention for the XXL breakfast: we loved it! The hotel even does a brunch on Sundays. And to unwind, there’s a small spa with a jacuzzi and sauna (which we didn’t have time to try).
Where to eat in Châlons-en-Champagne?
Food-wise, we were really spoilt this weekend! Here are the places we tried, starting with our two favourites:
- Le Petit Pasteur, 42 Rue Pasteur: our favourite of the trip! Incredible dishes, beautifully presented, real works of art. I had the pork fillet yakitori-style… absolutely delicious!
- La Maison de Marie-Caroline, 4 Rue Croix des Teinturiers: a restaurant run by a mother and daughter, with lovely décor and fresh, homemade food. Salmon en papillote for me, a huge pork knuckle for Alcino. We loved it!
- Les Sarments, 15 Place de la République: traditional seasonal cooking, right in the centre.
- Le Comptoir de la Licorne, 10 Place Foch: a handy spot for lunch on Place Foch.
When to visit Châlons-en-Champagne?
The European Heritage Days weekend in September is a chance to see unusual places that are normally closed to the public, such as the historic 1899 circus building, where students from the National Circus Arts Centre train. Be warned though, tour slots go fast (we couldn’t climb up to the church’s carillon). In June, the Furies festival is also a great time to come. And for the Métamorph’eau’ses boat ride, aim for April to early January, in the evening.
Things to do near Châlons-en-Champagne
Châlons makes a great stop on a Champagne road trip. You can easily combine your stay with a weekend in Reims, 45 minutes away by car, or a day in Épernay and its famous Avenue de Champagne, half an hour away.
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For us, Châlons-en-Champagne was a lovely surprise. A lively, human-sized town that’s easy to visit with a child, where you go from a Champagne cellar to an illuminated boat without ever getting in the car. If you’re looking for a weekend break in France, go for it!
This weekend was hosted by Châlons-en-Champagne Tourisme. As always, all opinions are our own.
FAQ: things to do in Châlons-en-Champagne
Frequently asked questions are here!
What are the best things to do in Châlons-en-Champagne in a weekend?
In a weekend, you can take the Métamorph’eau’ses night-time boat ride, visit the UNESCO-listed Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church and Saint-Étienne cathedral, play Le secret du voyageur escape game, tour the Joseph Perrier Champagne cellars and cycle to the Domaine de Coolus.
How long do you need to visit Châlons-en-Champagne?
A 2-day weekend is ideal to visit Châlons-en-Champagne without rushing. One day is enough for the historic centre, but you’d miss the night-time boat ride, one of the town’s highlights.
How do you get to Châlons-en-Champagne from Paris?
Direct trains run from Paris Gare de l’Est to Châlons-en-Champagne in about 1h30. By car, allow around 2 hours via the A4 motorway.
Why is Châlons-en-Champagne called the Venice of Champagne?
Châlons-en-Champagne is crossed by the Marne and several small waterways, the Mau and the Nau, which flow under many bridges. These canals, combined with Champagne, earned it the nickname of the Venice of Champagne.
Can you visit a Champagne house in Châlons-en-Champagne?
Yes, the Joseph Perrier house, founded in 1825, is the only Champagne house still based in Châlons. Its Gallo-Roman cellars can be visited with a tasting, from €27 per person. Booking is strongly recommended.
What can you do in Châlons-en-Champagne with kids?
Châlons-en-Champagne is very family-friendly: the boat ride, the outdoor escape game, the bike ride to the Domaine de Coolus and even the Joseph Perrier cellar tour, where children get a grape juice.