I had been dreaming of this trip to Norway, and to Tromsø in particular, for a long time. Well, what I was really dreaming of was seeing the northern lights, whales and Arctic landscapes… And Tromsø had been on my mind for a while: the Arctic Circle. The perfect place to see all that and more: orcas, reindeer, fjords… and to try a whole range of winter activities such as dog sledding or snowmobiling. (Well, spoiler alert, we couldn’t do those last ones because the snow decided to take a break during our stay… haha!)
In this article, we tell you what to see in Tromsø, but above all which of the many activities you can do in the surrounding area. You will also find our tips for planning your trip to northern Norway.

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What to do in Tromsø in winter?
Tromsø is an island city in the north of Norway, around 1,736 kilometres from Oslo and 350 kilometres above the Arctic Circle. Its location makes it one of the best starting points for exploring the Arctic. The city centre is easy to explore on foot and can be covered in half a day, which makes it ideal for combining a city visit with nature excursions.
The city mixes modern architecture and historic buildings, including the famous Arctic Cathedral and Tromsø Cathedral, as well as several museums, such as Polaria, and the striking public library.
But Tromsø isn’t just about the city: the surrounding landscapes, with their snow-capped mountains and icy fjords, are a big part of its charm.
Above all, Tromsø is known as the starting point for many winter excursions, whether you want to see the northern lights, meet reindeer and learn about Sami culture, go dog sledding, watch whales and orcas or explore the fjords by boat. Right, let’s get into the details of the must-sees in Tromsø!




Top things to see in Tromsø
The Arctic Cathedral
This Church of Norway building, nicknamed the Arctic Cathedral, was built in 1965. Its architecture is really unusual. Entry costs 90 NOK (2026 price), and keep an eye on the opening hours. We weren’t able to visit it: despite several attempts, it was always closed…
ℹ️ Practical information
📍 Address: Hans Nilsens vei 41, 9020 Tromsdalen
💶 Price: 90 NOK (2026)
🕒 Opening hours: vary with the season and church services

Tromsø Cathedral
A superb building made entirely of wood. We went back several times to see the inside, but it was always closed too…

Tromsø Library
Make sure you walk past Tromsø library (Grønnegata 94, free entry), and go inside! Its architecture is really unusual! It’s one of the city’s modern landmarks and contrasts with the older buildings. It’s really lovely!

Polaria
Alcino wanted to visit it because you can see seals there, and he thought the pools would be huge given the museum’s location. Let’s just say it was a big disappointment: the museum is tiny and overpriced for what it is. We don’t recommend it. But if you have children and they’re interested, there are several “shows” a day. You can book in advance, and tickets are sometimes cheaper on GetYourGuide, so it’s worth having a look.
ℹ️ Practical information
📍 Address: Hjalmar Johansens gate 12, 9007 Tromsø
🕒 Opening hours: daily, 10am to 5pm
🎟️ Tickets available online on the official website
The Fjellheisen cable car
For a beautiful view of Tromsø and its fjords, nothing could be easier. Every 30 minutes, the Fjellheisen cable car takes you up to Storsteinen, 420 m above sea level. During the day, you get the fjords and snowy landscapes. And if, like us, you go up in the evening, you might see the northern lights if the weather allows. It’s a great spot for watching them! If you’re feeling brave, you can also climb up on foot, but with the freezing cold and the growing darkness, we didn’t try!
ℹ️ Practical information
📍 Lower station: Solliveien 12, 9020 Tromsdalen
💶 Price: 645 NOK return, 415 NOK one way (2026)
🕒 Opening hours: daily from 9am to midnight in winter, departures every 30 minutes

Wander around the city centre
We really enjoyed strolling around Tromsø’s small city centre: wooden houses, street art… a walk along the harbour, with snowy landscapes in the background that make you dream…





Things to do around Tromsø
As I said above, Tromsø is above all an ideal base for enjoying the many activities in the surrounding area, whether by car or on an organised tour.
Chase the northern lights
Our number one goal in coming to Norwegian Lapland: seeing the northern lights in Tromsø, which had been on our bucket list for a very long time. The northern lights are an incredible phenomenon that you can see when you’re close enough to the Earth’s magnetic poles. (It also happens in the southern hemisphere, where it’s called the aurora australis.) We tell you all about our northern lights hunt in a dedicated article. We saw them on 2 evenings out of 5: once on our own (with a lot of luck), and once on a tour with Enjoy The Arctic.






Watch whales and orcas
Goal number 2: seeing whales! Another dream we’d had for so long! I had tried to see some in Uruguay a few years earlier, but it didn’t work out! Orcas and humpback whales arrive in November to feed on the shoals of herring that spend the winter in the fjords, and the season ends in late January. Since 2017, the herring, and therefore the whales, no longer come as far as Tromsø: they gather around Skjervøy, about a 4-hour drive further north. Of course, we’ve written a dedicated article about watching orcas and whales in Norway, but here’s a teaser: we had 2 absolutely crazy hours! A dream come true! We went with Green Gold Of Norway, and despite the long drive, it’s well worth it!
Be careful! Some dishonest companies still sell whale-watching trips from Tromsø, and only tell you the day before that the whales aren’t there. They dangle the possibility of seeing some, then suggest you keep the trip anyway, which turns into a simple fjord cruise.





Meet reindeer
We would have loved to go sledding, with dogs or with reindeer. Unfortunately, that year there was no snow in mid-November. We still really wanted to see these majestic and unusual animals. During this visit, we fed the reindeer for an hour and a half, then spent some time with the Sami people. Our article about the day: seeing reindeer in Norway. We did this visit with Tromso Lapland, who offer sled rides, reindeer encounters and Sami cultural visits.




Discover Sami culture
The Sami are an Indigenous people of Lapland who, among other things, keep the tradition of reindeer herding alive. After spending time with the animals, we shared a meal in a traditional tent, a lavvu, and learnt more about the Sami people and their traditions. For this half-day, we went with Tromso Lapland, and we tell you all about the experience in our reindeer article!


Go dog sledding
As I mentioned above, we really wanted to go sledding, with dogs or reindeer, but without snow it was impossible. Instead, we still got to discover the huskies’ world and went hiking with them! It was much more physical than we expected, with our crazy dog pulling in every direction! A great time in an amazing setting with snowy landscapes! We went with Villmarkssenter, one of the best-known centres in the region.




Hike through Arctic landscapes
When there’s no snow yet and the temperatures allow it, you can go hiking around Tromsø and discover the many islands, fjords and mountains of the Lyngen area. You can even hike in the Lyngen Alps, where apparently few travellers stop.

Take a fjord cruise
If you’re going out to sea to see the whales and orcas, a fjord cruise doesn’t really seem necessary to us… You’ll enjoy the magnificent scenery while watching the whales anyway.


Go skiing or snowmobiling
We didn’t try it, because there was no snow, haha (and we don’t ski anyway, so no regrets!)! From what we found out, you can ski in the Lyngen Alps, but the slopes are fairly difficult.

Go fishing in the fjords or on a frozen lake
Some tours let you fish in the fjords or, when it’s colder, through a hole in a frozen lake.
Sleep in a crystal lavvu
One of the highlights of our stay! Even though there were no northern lights that night, spending the night in this wooden tent with a glass roof in the middle of the Arctic forest will stay with us forever. This accommodation was included in our whale-watching day, and we tell you all about it in a dedicated article: sleeping in a lavvu in Norway. We booked this with Green Gold of Norway too!



Taste Norwegian specialities
And of course… Even in just under a week, we found a few Norwegian specialities in Tromsø! What we saw most: reindeer meat and cod! What we loved: Norwegian salmon, absolutely delicious as a main course or in a soup!


Planning your trip to Tromsø
Before you go
➺ Norway is part of the Schengen Area: most European travellers don’t need a visa for a short stay, but check the entry requirements for your nationality.
➺ Your travel dates will depend on the activities you want to do.
➺ We changed our money into NOK in France before leaving, as we were arriving late in the evening. But at Oslo airport, during our stopover, we saw a bureau de change with better rates. In practice, cards are accepted almost everywhere in Norway.
When to go to Tromsø?
Well, that’s the question we asked ourselves for weeks. If you want to enjoy the activities mentioned above, you need to come between November and March. To help you:
The polar night (when it’s dark all the time) lasts from late November to mid-January (check this website for sunrise and sunset times in Tromsø). From 15 January, there’s one hour of sunlight, then two… gradually rising to about five hours by the end of the month.
The northern lights are visible roughly from September to March, which gives you a wider window to see them.
The whales, on the other hand, can only be seen during a shorter “window”, from November to late January. Here’s roughly what we concluded:
➺ Northern lights + whales = November, early December. (Or late January, but with less chance of seeing whales.)
➺ Snow activities (sledding, snowmobiling, skiing…) + northern lights = mid-January, February, March.
So we’ll have to come back to Lapland (Norwegian or Finnish, for that matter! :D) for winter sports and properly snowy fjords!
Tromsø month by month in winter
To help you choose your dates, here’s what to expect each month. Temperatures are averages: thanks to the Gulf Stream, it’s often less cold than you’d imagine, but the wind can quickly make it feel much colder.
Tromsø in November
This is the month we went. In early November, there are still about 6 hours of daylight, then the sun disappears completely around 27 November, at the start of the polar night. Expect around -1 to -2 °C. It’s peak season for orcas and humpback whales, and the nights are already long enough for the northern lights. The only downside: snow isn’t guaranteed, as we found out!
Tromsø in December
December is the polar night: the sun doesn’t rise at all. But don’t imagine total darkness all day: around midday, the sky turns beautiful shades of blue and pink for a few hours. Temperatures hover around -3 °C, there’s usually snow on the ground and the Christmas atmosphere in town is lovely. The whales are still there, and the very long nights give you plenty of chances to see the northern lights. Just remember to book early, as the festive season is very popular.
Tromsø in January
The polar night ends around 15 January, and the sun reappears above the mountains around 21 January, a day the locals celebrate. On average, it’s the coldest month (around -4 °C). The snow means you can do all the winter activities: dog sledding, snowmobiling, snowshoeing… As for the whales, the season ends in late January and sightings become less reliable.
Tromsø in February
The days get longer fast: from about 5 hours of daylight in early February to nearly 10 hours by the end of the month. With temperatures around -4 °C and plenty of snow, it’s the ideal month for combining snow activities and the northern lights. However, the whales have gone. In early February, Sami Week (around 6 February, Sami National Day) also livens up the city, including reindeer races right in the centre.
Tromsø in March
In March, the days are already long (from 10 to nearly 14 hours of daylight), there’s still snow and it’s around -2 °C. The northern lights remain visible until around the end of March, but the nights are getting shorter, so you’ll need to stay up later to see them. It’s a good time to enjoy the snowy landscapes in full daylight.
What to wear?
We were there around mid-November, and it wasn’t as cold as we expected. We still came really well prepared. The main rules:
➺ cover your extremities: hats, gloves, wool socks and good walking boots. We haven’t invested in proper winter boots yet, but our Timberlands did the job for this short trip. For a longer stay, I think Timberlands are too heavy.
➺ dress in layers. For us: a technical T-shirt, a fleece and a coat. Alcino didn’t have a fleece but wore a Uniqlo down jacket. We bought our technical clothing at Decathlon.
➺ if you feel the cold, bring hand warmers, especially for evening excursions.
➺ On all our excursions, the companies provided special thermal suits and big winter boots.
How to get from the airport to the city centre?
If you’re not hiring a car at the airport, there are 3 ways to get to Tromsø city centre, about fifteen minutes away (indicative 2026 prices):
➺ By taxi: around 280 to 300 NOK during the day, more in the evening and at weekends.
➺ By Flybussen (the direct airport bus): around 130 NOK one way and 200 NOK return per person.
➺ By city bus, routes 40 and 42: around 50 NOK per journey (30 NOK off-peak) with the Svipper app, a little more if you pay on board.
Getting around Tromsø
If you want to visit the Arctic Cathedral on the other side of the bridge, for example, the easiest option is the bus. Buy your tickets on the Svipper app: around 50 NOK per journey at peak times, 30 NOK off-peak (weekdays from 9am to 2pm and after 5pm), and 140 NOK for a 24-hour pass. Tickets bought on board cost more.
Budget for a trip to Tromsø
Yes, Norway is a very expensive country. Restaurant prices are high, especially when you like to treat yourself like we do… You can always save money there. Excursions are also quite pricey… which is why we stayed in and around Tromsø and did excursions from there, rather than going on a 10- or 15-day road trip across the Nordic landscapes.
Here’s what we spent on our 6 days in Tromsø, in November 2018:
– Flights from Paris = €477 for 2
– 4 nights at the Smarthotel = €331 for 2
– Spending on site: food, transport (bus, cable car, car hire, groceries) = €700 for 2
– Excursions = €1,326 for 2
➺ Northern lights: €148 per person
➺ Half-day with the reindeer: €126.50 per person
➺ Husky hike: €96.50 per person
➺ Whales + night in the lavvu: €381 per person
Prices have gone up a lot since our trip. Here’s an updated estimate for winter 2026-2027, for 2 people and 6 days, on the same basis as our stay (a simple, well-located hotel and 4 excursions):
| 💶 Expense | 🧾 2026 budget for 2 |
|---|---|
| ✈️ Return flights to Tromsø from Western Europe (with a stopover) | €700 to €1,200 |
| 🏨 Simple hotel in the city centre (5 nights) | €650 to €1,000 |
| 🍽️ Food (restaurants and groceries) | €500 to €700 |
| 🚌 Transport (Flybussen, buses, cable car) | around €170 |
| 🌌 Northern lights chase | €220 to €350 (1,300 to 2,000 NOK per person) |
| 🦌 Half-day with reindeer and Sami culture | around €200 (1,195 NOK per person) |
| 🐕 Husky hike | around €280 (1,640 NOK per person) |
| 🐋 Whale and orca safari in Skjervøy | around €500 (2,900 NOK per person) |
| 💰 Total | €3,200 to €4,400 |
Excursion prices are those listed by the operators for the 2026-2027 season, converted at around 11.7 NOK to €1. Flights and hotels vary a lot depending on when you book: for the festive season, book as early as possible.
Where to stay in Tromsø?
Hotels in Tromsø aren’t cheap, so we looked for the cheapest one in a decent location and found the Smarthotel. We actually stayed there for 2 nights, checked out to spend a night in a crystal lavvu, then came back to the same hotel. The first time, the welcome was perfect; the second time, however, the receptionist wanted to charge us extra for an early check-in. They offer low room rates because they charge for everything else. It’s a hotel that does the job: very central, clean, with a good breakfast. But don’t expect an amazing welcome! Haha! One slightly annoying thing: everything is paid by card, the room, the breakfasts, even a bottle of water you grab on the way. So if, like us, your bank charges fees on card payments abroad, try to pay for everything at once. This system is no doubt easier for them to manage, but really impractical when you just want to buy a snack!
We also spent a night in a lavvu with a transparent roof, a superb experience that we tell you about in our article on spending the night in a lavvu in Norway. I couldn’t find it on Booking; I don’t think you can book just the night. For us, it was part of a “whale watching + night in the lavvu” package.
Where to eat in Tromsø?
We’ve written a dedicated article on Norwegian specialities, with everything you should eat in Tromsø and all our favourite places, but here’s a quick recap:
➺ Bardus Bistro: our favourite of the trip… A really good meal at reasonable prices, with local specialities!
➺ Hildr: nothing to fault in the quality of the food. However, the concept is small sharing plates… at Norwegian prices for “normal” portions… We found it overpriced for not much food…
➺ Mathallen: THE best-known restaurant in town… Of course, nothing to fault in the quality of our meal (well, there was a hair on my plate, and I don’t think it was mine)… This is where we ate the best salmon of our lives! However, the service was a big letdown. Very slow, the waiters chatted a lot among themselves, were on their phones or talked to friends who were dining there. The meal lasted about 2.5 hours even though the restaurant was fairly empty. We also felt they were trying a bit too hard to look exclusive: the first time we tried to eat there, they told us there was no room and that booking was compulsory. We walked past it often, and the restaurant was never full… In short, a compulsory booking just to look trendy didn’t go down well with us.
➺ Huken Pub: for a good burger and a Nordic beer!
➺ Ølhallen: a pub with a huge range of beers in a nice setting.
We also did a bit of grocery shopping at the supermarket. We recommend buying a few snacks, as the meals on excursions are fairly light (a bowl of soup, a sandwich, etc.).
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This trip was simply wonderful! Dreams come true… stars in our eyes every day… Visiting Tromsø and its surroundings did only one thing: make us want to go back, for a road trip in Norway or to enjoy the snow and the northern lights!
Tromsø FAQ
Click here to read the FAQ
How many days do you need in Tromsø?
Ideally, plan 3 to 5 days to visit Tromsø in winter. That gives you time to see the city’s main sights, do at least one or two nature activities (dog sledding, meeting reindeer, a fjord cruise…) and, above all, maximise your chances of seeing the northern lights. With less than 3 days, the trip can quickly be frustrating, as Arctic weather is unpredictable.
Can you visit Tromsø without a car?
Yes, you can easily visit Tromsø without a car. The city centre is compact and easy to explore on foot, and local buses take you to the main sights, such as the Fjellheisen cable car. For nature activities (northern lights, whales, dog sledding…), tours almost always include transport from the city, so most travellers don’t need to hire a car.
Is it very cold in Tromsø in winter?
Contrary to popular belief, Tromsø isn’t necessarily extremely cold in winter. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, temperatures are milder than elsewhere at the same latitude and stay manageable with the right gear. How cold it feels depends mainly on the wind and humidity. If you dress in several thermal layers, you can comfortably enjoy outdoor activities.
Is Tromsø worth visiting?
Yes, Tromsø is well worth the trip, especially in winter. Located above the Arctic Circle, the city offers a unique combination of Arctic atmosphere, spectacular landscapes and unforgettable experiences such as watching the northern lights or going on a husky sled ride. Easy to reach and well organised for winter tourism, Tromsø is one of the most fascinating destinations in northern Europe.
What is the best month to visit Tromsø in winter?
It depends on what you want to see. To combine the northern lights and whales, aim for November or early December. For snow activities (dog sledding, snowmobiling) and the northern lights, choose February or March, when the days are longer. From late November to mid-January, it’s the polar night: a unique atmosphere, but very little light.
What to do in Tromsø in December?
In December, you can chase the northern lights, watch orcas and humpback whales around Skjervøy, feed reindeer with Sami herders, go dog sledding (there’s usually snow by then) and enjoy the Christmas atmosphere in town. It’s the polar night, so plan daytime activities around midday, when the sky gets lighter.
Can you see whales in Tromsø in January?
Yes, until around the end of January, but sightings become less reliable towards the end of the month. Since 2017, orcas and humpback whales no longer come as far as Tromsø: tours head to the waters around Skjervøy, about a 4-hour drive north. Be wary of tours promising whales directly from Tromsø.
How much does a trip to Tromsø cost?
Budget around €3,200 to €4,400 for two people for 6 days in 2026, including flights, hotel, food and four excursions. Excursions are the biggest expense: from around €100 per person for a half-day with reindeer to €250 for a whale safari.

